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Wall-mounted sinks have a great, contemporary appearance and make a small bathroom, especially a guest bathroom, look less cluttered and more spacious. Luckily, mounting a wall mounted spout is a viable project for most DIYers.
Prep the Wall

As soon as you've safely removed the toilet vanity, if there is one, it is time to prep the wall for your glossy new sink.
Start by measuring the size of your sink and determining the ideal mounting height (generally about 30 inches from the ground, but this might vary depending upon your sink or preference). That should give you an estimate of the place you'll need to support.
Gently cut a part of the drywall away and nail in obstructing --either 2x6s or 2x8s--between the wall studs. In case you have a tile wall or other wall covering, you are going to need to be very careful to only remove tile which won't show if your sink is set up. Replace and repair your drywall before beginning the faucet installation. If you don't know how to do so, call a plumber in george plumbers.
Install the Sink

If your sink includes a mounting plate, then you can use that to get a template to drill your pilot holes. Otherwise, you'll use the sink to spot and mark where to drill. Be sure to use a masonry bit if you're drilling through tile.
Prepare the faucet, drain and pop-up assemblies on the sink. Add the faucet to the sink and then attach with locknuts. Wrap a thin line of plumber's putty under the border of your drain assembly's home, then insert in the drain hole and press to seal. On the bottom, install the gasket and the washer. Position the opening on the drain into the back of the sink; that is where you'll put in your pop-up assembly. Tighten the locknut--you might have to hold the housing so that it does not turn with the drainand remove any extra plumber's putty from around the housing. Set your pivot rod to the opening onto the drain bit and then thread the rod through the conclusion of the sink stopper. The pivot pole will include a plastic ball that fits into the opening and functions as a washer. Install a nut over the top to keep it set up. Your pivot rod should still have the ability to move down and up.
Add your elevator pole through the sink faucet so that it runs down next to the pivot rod. Utilize the spring clip in your kit to connect the pivot rod and the lift pole. The lift pole will have many holes so you can adjust it into just the right place for operating the pop-up gathering. Test the meeting by pushing back on your lift rod and making sure the drain pop will, indeed, produce up.
Install the mounting plate or the sink by simply attaching it to a blocking with lag screws. Screw from the first one, then make sure that your sink is flat before putting in the additional screws. If you're using a mounting plate, secure your sink to the plate.
Install the P-trap and the drain arm to your current drain. Connect your elastic cold and hot water supply tubes in the bottom of the faucet to the shutoff valves in the wall. The tubes will join with either compression nuts or flared fittings--twist those with turning clockwise with a wrench. Turn the handle in your shutoff valves counterclockwise, then open the faucet to flush the lines out. Make sure that there are no leaks anywhere in the meeting and that nothing needs to be tightened.
Your sink kit may include a trim piece to cover the plumbing pipes. You can attach this bit with lag screws once you've tested the plumbing and george plumbers are certain there are no leaks.
If you encounter any issues as you put in your faucet, be sure to contact a certified, professional plumber at George.

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